January 24, 2011: Siwa Day 1

We arrived in Siwa today and are staying at the Adrere Amellal, which is an eco-lodge in the Western Sahara Desert. It has no electricity and while it is warm during the day, even now in their winter, nights are chilly to cold. OMG, we are in the Sahara desert! I keep hearing Sting in my head….teaaaa in the saharaaaaa with meeeeee….

The 8 hour drive from Cairo here was way less painful than anticipated until we arrived in the little town and no one could tell our driver where the place was. 

It was desert every which way you looked.

Unlike the average American male he stopped several times to ask directions. Once he asked a man with three young boys who tried to help but in the end the kids were happier getting candy from us through the van windows. We said to share and sure enough two little girls came out from behind a short wall to get theirs. SO cute to see them chomping. We finally finally made it through to the place by what felt like sheer luck. No signage, nothing to say that there is a freaking paradise around the corner.

As usual, everyone was annoyed because I could sleep.

I was able to read on the ride and meditate and of course sleep a little. At one point I looked out the window and there were a bunch of camels on the median. We have deer in the Hampton’s, here they have camel. Was so strange to see.

We've just come back from the second delicious meal, most of which is grown here on the property, this one candlelit up on the hillside. We started with cocktails in a cozy room with a fireplace and a small plate of hors d’oeuvres. They asked us what time we’d like dinner and at the appointed hour escorted us just next door to a table for four in a room with an open ceiling – stars galore to accompany our amazing meal: stuffed zucchini flowers in a melted tomato sauce for appetizer, chicken cooked in some amazing onion, tomato and raisin stew sauce with rice and the best damned arugula salad I think I’ve ever had. Dessert was a leftover pita bread pudding with cinnamon and a meringue topping. YUM.

After dinner, as we were hurrying to get the candles lit in our room and snuggle up close to stay warm (it’s about 45 out) I sat down and…the bed is warm! Gotta love that hot water bottle touch!!

To say it is beautiful here is an understatement. It is breathtaking. The karsts are made of sand and salt and look like they have been here since the beginning of time.

I went out to explore after a lunch of fresh hibiscus iced tea,  sautéed greens over spaghetti (I skipped the pasta) and tomatoes stuffed with peas and herbs. So fresh and tasty. I missed veggies in Cairo apparently. 

My guide up the mountain for a sunset hike.

Dusk near the summit.

I was escorted on a hike up the mountainside so I could take photos of the sunset. There are steps carved into the rock and it winds up and up to nearly the top.  I can hardly believe I made it all the way, in flip fops no less (not something I’d recommend, or do myself again for that matter).

The silence is golden here and so appreciated after all the ruckus in Cairo. There’s a stillness and peacefulness that just settles into your bones here. No buzzing of electric lights, no cell phones ringing, no cars honking and just nothing but the sound of an occasional sandal hitting the sand. Or a donkey squealing actually…but that’s another story.

And it’s only been a few hours. Can’t wait to see how we feel in a few days.

(oh, and yes, the PT on my lame finger continues – it still doesn’t really want to bend on it’s own)

(oh, and yes, Gabriella is still coughing)